Sewing for Everybody

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-Half of @munaandbroad patterns
-Asst Prof Fashion Design and Social Justice @ParsonsSchoolOfDesign
-2023 @spoonflower Ambassador

Tale of a sewing fail. I bought this most wonder

Tale of a sewing fail.

I bought this most wonderful fabric from one of my favourite places in the NYC garment district. It’s a wonderful, pleated taffeta, however, in order to have permanent pleating, the fabric needs to be a synthetic. I don’t generally buy synthetic fabrics because I prefer the breathability and sustainability of natural fibers, but I made an exception here because I love this fabric so much. it has an irregular, almost broomstick pleat, but then also has an inverted broomstick pleat in a slight wave pattern.

I knew that I wanted the garment I made from it to be as simple as possible so I modified the Lobethal shirt, omitting the pockets and the centre back seam. I also was undecided about whether to cut relaxed or stretched. I decided to cut relaxed because I was concerned that cutting stretched would mean that the garment would end up smaller than I wanted.

As soon as I started sewing this, I suspected that it wasn’t going to be the best garment for me. It ended up more oversized than the intention and due to the hand of the fabric, it remains fairly… stiff, but not really stiff, more just that it really holds its shape. The neckline also ended up growing a fair bit.

I think it’s not a terrible garment but just not my preference.

I doubt this will be staying in my wardrobe not least because the fabric is not a natural fibre and my preferences have been confirmed. Fortunately, I do have more of this fabric, and I think that I may have to do something different with it, perhaps a skirt, so it is not around my upper body.

Image: a Fat Asian woman is wearing an oversized pleated black shirt. She’s smiling and looking up

#sewingproject #sewfat #fatsewing #fatsewingclub

I can’t believe I haven’t shared what has been

I can’t believe I haven’t shared what has been a staple this winter! I’ve worn it at least once a week, with boots, with sneakers, with clogs.

This is a greatly lengthened cocoon #HexhamDress with a funnel neck (a patreon bonus for the Tarlee). I love a funnel for the comfort but also for the ease of sewing and wearing because it can be dressed up or down depending on how your fold it.

I made it in gorgeous merino jersey and it has the most wonderful drape. My love affair with wool jersey began in the 90s and shows no sign of letting up.

Dress: @munaandbroad #hexhamdress in @aandrfabrics merino jersey

Shoes: @empressaustralia (not spon)

Image: a Fat Asian woman is wearing a long black dress and is in front of a white wall

#munaandbroad #munaandbroadpatreon #sewvisiblyfat #plussizesewing

I like to add Ban Roll (a special waistband stiffe

I like to add Ban Roll (a special waistband stiffener) to my trousers as I find they always get bunched up with the shape of my tummy. I tend to use a 2 piece waistband as it’s curved at the back. For this one I only used it on the front because I did an elasticated back waistband but next time I do a curved back I’ll take pics of how I apply it there.

You’ll sew it to the seam allowance just a hair away from the stitching line (to give space for the turn of the cloth). When you apply the inner waistband, be sure to leave that space too.
Hope this helps you get a crisp and tailored finish that will last and defy your B belly!

#sewingtipsandtricks #munaandbroad #sewingtutorial

I cut some pants out yesterday and thought it migh

I cut some pants out yesterday and thought it might be interesting for people to see the two approaches I typically taken when cutting fabric

Image: a sped up video showing different approaches to cutting out fabric: using card and using paper

#sewingtipsandtricks #sewingtechniques #fashionprofessor

Please enjoy this outfit I wore last week (NYC is

Please enjoy this outfit I wore last week (NYC is not a v cold place!). Even though the #LobethalShirt is very very oversized, it fits under the #BelmoreJacket nicely. Incidentally, I’ve been wearing my lined Belmore almost every day (lining was a Patreon bonus) this “winter”. Sometimes I have to layer it more but that day was beautiful. I also finally steamed my #WillandraPants which hadn’t seen the light of day for quite some time due to pure laziness.

For me, this outfit was perfect for work - comfy but also cool-ish. I like it when my clothing has a point of view, and honestly I always feel like an elastic waist and an oversized silhouette is a big middle finger to fatphobia.

Image: a Fat Asian woman is wearing black pants, shirt, and a boxy jacket. There’s a pink couch and an indistrial beam in the background

#munaandbroad #munaandbroadpatreon @munaandbroad #fatfashion #plussizeminimalist

Fabric choice is so amazing, isn’t it? I sewed u

Fabric choice is so amazing, isn’t it? I sewed up this #LobethalShirt in the most gorgeous sandwashed silk from @aandrfabrics (it’s wide too!) and it’s drapey deliciousness. I think it really changes the personality of the shirt from architectural to relaxed and luxe.

I’m wearing it today and managed not to spill anything on it (so far!). And I’m wearing it with #SculthorpePants so it’s honestly like wear pyjamas to work but the super slinky version.

Image: a Fat Asian woman is wearing a black drapey shirt, black pants and shoes. She’s tucking her hair behind her ear and is in front of a pink couch

#munaandbroad #sculthorpepants #plussizeminimalist #plussizecapsulewardrobe #sewvisiblyfat

This was a long simmer! And the @munaandbroad Lobe

This was a long simmer! And the @munaandbroad Lobethal Shirt is out in the wild!

I originally designed this for myself, long before M and B. I wanted a big big big, architectural shirt with pockets and no collar. That was the garment where I figured out how to sew what is now the M and B sleeve band. From time to time, I’d share a pic of me in it and we would have some enquires (I usually called it the “oversized shirt”).

The time has come though and Jess and I workshopped it (as we always do) and it’s materially improved. The pockets are topstitched which gives a lovely detail. There’s a small side slit for interest. The neckline is clean finished with a bias facing and the instructions and accompanying video walk you through some tips to a beautiful result. All aspects as considered to make this a straightforward sew - a great choice for a first button up shirt. I think this one was worth the wait.

P.S. I’m super into this styling with the #NoiceJeans

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing light blue jeans and a white shirt. The shirt is very oversized and half tucked in to the front of her jeans. The sleeves are elbow length.

#lobethalshirt #munaandbroad #plussizesewing #isewmyownclothes #bipocsewcialists #fatsewingclub

Thank you everyone! Current co creation session is

Hi. It’s me! I’m alive but trying to work out

Hi. It’s me! I’m alive but trying to work out what’s wrong with the feed. I’ve been MIA a bit (a death in the fam, illness etc) but now my posts are not even showing for me so let’s see if these repost works. Would you mind liking this one?

Dress: merino jersey dress, loosely based on the @munaandbroad #hexhamdress but longer and with a funnel neck. Made in merino jersey
Jacket: #belmorejacket in cotton canvas

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing an all black outfit, a dress and jacket, with a brown shearling bag she’s in front of a pink couch. There’s a stack of books on the coffee table and the top one is called “Fat, Gay, Men” if you zoom in

Here’s a quick OOTD. I was pretty happy with t

Here’s a quick OOTD.

I was pretty happy with this mild-winter day outfit so it needed documenting! I’m cozy in merino and a lined jacket and shearling lined boots, but it’s very mild here in NYC today. I did a lot of stomping around Soho this morning, which is what prompted an attempt at a cool outfit, LOL.

Dress: merino jersey dress, loosely based on the @munaandbroad #HexhamDress but longer and with a funnel neck. Made in@aandrfabrics merino
Jacket: @munaandbroad #BelmoreJacket in cotton canvas
Bag: @yourbagofholding (gifted)
Boots: @maguireshoes (fits my v wide and high instep well! Todays the first wear!)

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing an all black outfit, a dress and jacket, with a brown shearling bag she’s in front of a pink couch. There’s a stack of books on the coffee table and the top one is called “Fat, Gay, Men” if you zoom in

#munaandbroad #sewyourclothes #plussizesewing

As soon as I saw the @elbe_textiles #DavisBeltBag

As soon as I saw the @elbe_textiles #DavisBeltBag I knew it was for me. Today I made it and it is a winner. Sorry Lauren, but I went off book and added a second pocket for keys instead of the d ring (also because I had the most adorable zipper in my stash).

I sized up a size (this is the largest size. I have a 48” waist) so it’s more flexible with what I wear under it. I also had a brain fart because I put silver snaps even though the zippers are brass. I hate setting snaps so these will stay until I’m in the garment district in NYC sometime and will have them re set professionally.

Looking forward to wearing this every day!

Image: a black, flat waist bag with two brass zippers. The bag is smooth over one hip like a skirt crossed with a holster. It’s shown on a plus size dress form

#sewsewsew #elbetextiles #sewingaccessories #sewing #bipocsewcialists

These photos, snapped quickly in December 2 years

These photos, snapped quickly in December 2 years ago, should stand as a testament to my most worn make(excuse crease lines, it get folded into a drawer every day!). I have always loved natural linen aprons and my first iteration (not this one) was made many years ago and was a simple rectangle, just like the ones I’d seen at expensive minimalist linen stores.

But surprise, my body requires a bit more engineering for a good fit. I added a curved underarm so it can sit higher for full chest and side coverage (I’m a messy person). The cross back means the amount of overlap can adapt to different body sizes too. We initially released this to our @munaandbroad patreons but have come to realize many folks want this simple, clean, and practical apron. And that’s why it’s become the #apreon

Image: a fat Asian woman is standing in her kitchen. She’s wearing a natural coloured linen apron that provides a LOT of body coverage

#munaandbroad #indiepatterndesigner #minimalistsewing #curvysewing #sewinggifts

Took a train to cozy town in this #TarleeTShirt tu

Took a train to cozy town in this #TarleeTShirt turtleneck. I haven’t worn it much in the past because I’d run out of fabric while making it and so the bottom part of the sleeves is cut on the cross grain. My cover stitch also refused to sew this fabric so I had to zigzag the hems. This annoyed me so much that it really coloured my wearing experience and so I didn’t reach for it.

But why? It’s actually so comfy and a lovely thick and cushy rib knit, not to mention it’s a great colour. For me, the emotional part of making can really affect how I feel when I wear garments.

Are you also a garment empath?

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing a bright red turtleneck and black pants. She’s next to a large green houseplant

#munaandbroad #iwearwhatisew #sewstagram #sewsewsew #sewing #plussizesewing

Slow Fashion Witch day. Thought I’d play with vo

Slow Fashion Witch day. Thought I’d play with volume here. For the last while I’ve been working with lots of volume on my fat body, honestly as a big FU to fatphobia. But this new skirt has given me a slim fitting bottom garment and that’s fun too.

I’ve paired my #WhitlamSkirt with a #WaikerieDress worn as a duster/long shirt situation. Both fabrics are faves. The skirt is thick merino and the duster is a cotton crepe and is one of my favourite garments ever.

And it’s super comfy and cozy. Because no one wants a grumpy witch, eh?

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing an all black outfit. There’s a slim fit long black skirt under a knee length black shirt dress. You can see a shelf and a pink couch and the floors have a delicious patina that only comes with decades and decades of use and the light quality is beautiful

#munaandbroad @munaandbroad #slowfashionwitch #sewinglove #plussizeminimalist @traceyneuls #iwearwhatisew #effyourbeautystandards

Sometimes that blank canvas, goes-with-everything

Sometimes that blank canvas, goes-with-everything garment is elusive. I wanted a slim fitting column skirt to wear in the fall and winter but there was a challenge as a patternmaker. I didn’t want the skirt to cling under my belly (as a true tube skirt would), and with a wider hip measurement I had to work out, technically, how to achieve a slim silhouette.

And so the #WhitlamSkirt was born and it’s over at @munaandbroad. This probably doesn’t come as a huge surprise as it’s been teasing for ages but I wanted to tell you about my sneaky patternmaking tricks I built in.

I’m really proud of this pattern which looks simple but has a lot of tricks up it’s sleeve (mixing metaphors here). The result is a pretty heavily engineered pattern. There are two bum fits to cup your individual peach shape and a fitting guide in the pattern so you can tweak this baby if you like. The front doesn’t cling to your belly but hangs freely.

It’s also a super quick sew and very comfy in a 4 way stretch. This one is a merino/spandex interlock (a bit of a unicorn fabric) but I’m looking forward to a ribbed version too.

Image: a fat Asian woman is standing next to a pink couch. She’s wearing a white shirt over a long, slim black skirt. She’s tucking her hair behind her ear and smiling

#munaandbroad #indiesewing #indiesewingpattern #fatsewing #sewincolour #asiansewists #asiansewistcollective #bipocsewcialists #sewcialists #indiepatternmaker #curvysewing #plussizesewing

Well the weather has turned, both in Canada and NY

Well the weather has turned, both in Canada and NYC and it’s time for the cozies.

All fall and winter I wear layers of merino which is fabulous for temperature regulation, barely requires laundering, and is anti-stink. This is my fave long sleeve merino top - a #TarleeTShirt with the patreon bonus funnel neck (MB patreons get cool stuff!). I find funnel necks so comfy and easy but somehow look a little pulled together. How does that work?

On the bottom are the rarely photographed #NoiceJeans in a popcorn denim from @blackbirdfabrics. It’s a rigid denim that has worn in and is comfy. The waistband of the jeans is stabilized in a way that prevents it from stretching out with time.

I know it’s not the most exciting of outfits but it’s reality and here we are! What’s your cozy outfit?

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing a great turtleneck and dark blue jeans with colourful, tie dye sneakers. She’s next to a pink couch and is smiling

#munaandbroad #iwearwhatisew #fatsew #indiepattern #sustainablesewing #sewingjeans #plussizesewing #curvysewingcollective #cscmakes #bfdenim @munaandbroad

Today is the final day of the @munaandbroad 3rd bi

Today is the final day of the @munaandbroad 3rd birthday celebrations.

Reflecting on these past three years through photos is a real journey! It’s been so cool to see how my own style has changed in so many ways, although, perhaps, not as well documented in photographs. In the early days of M & B, my photo taking skills were fairly terrible, and so I tended to sew more colourful clothes, so that I could photograph them more easily when I never really felt that comfortable wearing so many colors! So on my grid, you’ll see things apparently moving from very colourful to very black when actually it’s been fairly black the whole time in terms of my day-to-day outfit choices.

I think the best thing about sewing for me is the ability to make exactly what I want to wear, and it’s often not particularly exciting or different to what is easily available in store in straight sizes, however, I am not able to find the styles I want in store. So mostly, I am just sewing really simple, basic but elevated garments. These clothes should be available to buy but I am always disappointed by the product selection in store. If not by the style selection, then often with the fit. And so I feel so lucky to be in the position I am where I can share sewing patterns with home sewers, and also be a part of educating the next generation of fashion professionals, so that the choices I better in the future.

Image: a reel of photos of a fat Asian woman wearing different tops and shirts

#munaandbroad #tarawishirt #waikerieshirt #tarleetshirt #hydetshirt #torrensboxtop #nullarborcami #huonshirt #atraxtop

Undies and loungewear day! Lounge, swim, and undi

Undies and loungewear day!

Lounge, swim, and undies seem like they would be a bit of an afterthought for a pattern line but I think the fact that we have so many, proportionally, is a really telling sign about the state of the fashion industry.

Does anyone actually want to sew underpants? Well, if you can’t buy ones that fit properly, then yes. You do. Fat and plus size folks are especially neglected for these apparently basic garments so it’s wonderful to know that hiding under so many beautiful hand made garments are comfy and practical underpinnings that are specifically designed for bodies like ours.

Image: a reel of Pajamas, robes, swim, and underwear worn by a fat Asian woman

@munaandbroad #munaandbroad #banksiabralette #waratahundies #dulcieboxerbriefs #banksiaswimsuit #kapundaundies #kapundies #medlowrobe

Dresses day! I don’t know about you, but I find

Dresses day! I don’t know about you, but I find dresses the most easy things to wear, because it’s just a single garment!

I think for a long time as fat folks, we have been told that dresses look better on us. And so our response has been to make oversized loose and voluminous dresses. Part of this is style choice for sure but honestly part of it for me is about giving a big middle finger to that phobia in fashion.

(Today’s musical choice is very obscure and I don’t think anyone will get the link between pattern name and why I chose that piece of music. Hint: key is the artist)

Image: a real of a fat Asian woman wearing many many large dresses.

#munaandbroad @munaandbroad #hexhamdress #melbadress #huondress #waikeriedress #nullarbordress

Today is outerwear day on the @munaandbroad bday c

Today is outerwear day on the @munaandbroad bday celebrations!

When I was putting this reel together, I was actually really surprised about how many outerwear patterns we have! There are a few I had almost forgotten about.

We make patterns for plus size folks, however, when I am making them, I think less about the body size I’m drafting for and more about , creating interesting, beautiful, and thoughtful construction options. So that means when I’m creating a pattern for boiled wool, we utilize the non-fraying qualities of boiled wool with interesting pockets and edge finishes. The belmore pockets are created using a neat in seam technique with twill tape for stabilization, and the shoalhaven has the most beautiful hem facings.

So much of our sewing for larger bodies is quite functional and so it’s a fun chance to flex those technical muscles. It might already be clear, but I also take some delight in creating details that are enviable at any size.

Image: a reel of outerwear garments

#munaandbroad #cobdenchorejacket #shoalhavenshacket #belmorejacket #graingercoat #malleejacket

Three years of M and B! It’s not an exaggeration

Three years of M and B! It’s not an exaggeration to say it has been life-changing! This week, I’ll be sharing retrospectives, according to the categories over on Muna and Broad, but also reflecting on what this time has meant to me.

Today I’m thinking about community. We have been so welcomed into this wonderful fat, sewing community, and we are grateful to be a part of it, giving back as we can. Last night, we had our monthly Patreon sewing circle, and it was full of community, fellowship, and open talk about bodies, sewing, and fat life. These monthly chats with like-minded people are really the highlight of my month.

(Where I can, I try for an Easter egg in my music choices for reels. No one noticed the last one but maybe this one is more obvious!)

Image: a reel of photos of Leila, a fat Asian woman wearing outfits that contain various pants. Lots of them are black.
@munaandbroad #munaandbroad #sculthorpepants #glebepants #birchgrovepants #noicejeans #willandrapants

When you are a terrible photographer but pretend i

When you are a terrible photographer but pretend it’s art

Wearing an #AtraxTop and a forthcoming skirt (!)

Image: an artistically blurry image of a person wearing an all black outfit with a pink couch

@munaandbroad #fatvanitycheckpoint #munaandbroad #iwearwhatisew #isewmyownclothes #indiepatterns #fashionprofessor

The weather is changing and I’m glad to have a c

The weather is changing and I’m glad to have a chance to bring out my woollies! This is a #HexhamDress in a lovely grey merino from @wearethefabricstore.

Could I be more cozy? No
Could my @emma_alamo harness be more awesome? Also no.

How is the weather change affecting your outfits?

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing a grey long sleeved cocoon dress. She has a thin black harness and is posing in front of a phone set up on a tripod. You can see the blurry image of her on the phone too

@munaandbroad #munaandbroad #emmaalamo #traceyneuls #thefabricstore #sewingmerino #fatsewing

[ad] Shoes as the hero! I have been gifted two bea

[ad] Shoes as the hero! I have been gifted two beautiful pairs of @traceyneuls shoes - the Andy boot in black with a hessian double finish and the Pablo shoe in this bright orange pop. They are easily the most comfy rtw shoes I’ve ever worn for my wide feet with high insteps. I thought it might be fun to do some styling where the shoes are the hero of the outfit.

Tell me: what is your fave combo? Black with a pop, slow fashion witch, colourful?

I also have a code for you: LEILASEWS which offers free shipping to the United States for over any purchase over £250
*Valid until October 31st, Midnight BST, and cannot be used in conjunction with any offer.

Image: a reel with a series of outfits featuring black combat style boots and orange Oxford shoes

#whatfatgirlsactuallywear #slowfashion #slowfashionwitch #fatstyle #munaandbroad #huondress #noicejeans #waikeriedress #atraxtop #hexhamdress #emmaalamo

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