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Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

March 22, 2021 by munaandbroadly No Comments

If you support businesses that trade on the commodification and appropriation of Asian identity and culture, YOU are part of the problem. Ouch. None of us want to think we have done racist things, but we all have.

Ask yourself: why would a company choose Asian words to sell garments if they don’t have a personal connection with that culture or country beyond travel. It’s to feed on the exoticism or perceived coolness of that culture and that is exploitative.

When you purchase a garment or a sewing pattern that uses an Asian word, name, or garment type name, you are part of the fetishization and the dehumanization of Asians and Asian culture. This is a rung on the ladder that also includes the Asian sexualization and fetishization that fueled this latest bout of violence.

In addition to any larger social justice you might be participating in, I call on you to share your anti-racist actions that specifically relate to the slow fashion and sewing communities. Let’s make these actions the norm. Be part of a movement to affect some change here in our beloved communities. Here are some action items:

-Ask companies to change their practices. Be specific. Unfollow them and their hashtags and let them know why you will not support them until they change. Asking and waiting isn’t enough. You need to demonstrate that it is important to you by unfollowing.

-Stop sharing garments that are appropriative in name or garment type name. Take responsibility for your past actions. Delete old posts that feature appropriative words. Sharing doesn’t just benefit the company, it benefits you too. Are you OK with that?

-Do not take workshops or follow people that are sharing cultural sewing practices outside of their culture unless they have spent significant time in that country AND have been given permission by cultural knowledge keepers to share. Examples of this include Sashiko and Shibori.

-Do not wear, buy, or make items with Asian language writing , “China Doll” imagery, Asian pinup girls, bamboo print, fake Shibori, other “Asian-style” prints or images. Turn these into rags if you already own them or overdye them.

-If you are requesting cultural advice, hire a BIPOC from the culture or ethnicity you need advice on. But here’s a tip: if you’re questioning if something is problematic, I almost guarantee it is. Own up to your mistakes

-Support Black, Indigenous, Asian, and other POCs by amplifying their work and supporting their enterprises.

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I am a delight to behold

March 21, 2021 by munaandbroadly No Comments

My body is worth it.

My body is worth being clothed with care and consideration. I will not settle for things that don’t fit right.

My body shouldn’t be an afterthought. It is not difficult, or a way to deflect social media scrutiny. I’m not grateful for your crumbs.

Clothes hang differently on my body than thin bodies – it’s an opportunity for expression, for new shapes, and artistic freedom. It’s not a problem to be solved or diminished.

I am to be valued for the body I have. It’s ideal as it is and deserves patterns and clothes that were made for it, not in spite of it. Don’t hide me on the last slide of your post.

Look at me. I am soft. If you haven’t stroked a fat body and enjoyed its softness, you are missing out on delight.

I am a delight to behold.

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Learning to be Fat

May 17, 2020 by munaandbroadly No Comments

This blog post was written for FatSewing club as a part of Me Made May 2020

Over the years, I’ve spent a lot of time and energy trying to disguise my fatness from the rest of the world. Of course, now I have realized that not only is it pointless (I am fat – it’s a fact and everyone can tell), I have also come to the point where I just don’t care who knows.

I’d like to share some of the things I used to do, for your reading enjoyment.

I used to shop at the same stores that my thin friends did. That meant Artizia (Canadians will know this is a store that goes to a size XXS but only an L and a small one at that), Mountain Equipment Co-op (outdoors store), and Lululemon. Of course, my size means I can’t fit into most of the things in those stores but there were a few styles that worked (ish) for me and so I would buy them, thinking this would make it seem like I could fit straight sizes. I squeezed into the design ease or took advantage of the fabric’s stretch. I spent money on coveted accessories – Frye boots, nice bags. I tried to hid my fatness behind these symbols of thinness.

I would pretend I didn’t shop at plus sized clothing stores. When I absolutely had to go to Additionelle (plus sized clothing store), I would actually park in front of a different store and furtively scuttle into the shop, making sure no one I knew was around. I wouldn’t accept a store bag, give my address (didn’t want mail from them to appear at my house), or buy anything that was their house brand except underwear (i.e. nothing that might make someone ask where it was from).

When my body would do “embarrassing” things, I would feign surprise or lie about what was happening. For example, once I was running shuttle runs with a friend and as I turned, my belly slapped against my thigh, making a fairly loud noise. She was surprised and asked what it was. Because I was mortified that my belly touched the top of my thigh, I lied and told her my hand hit my leg as I ran. I don’t think she bought it.

And so it continued. For years. Me believing that my body was weirdly shaped and that I was fooling people. And I certainly had reinforcement from people that it was imperative that I keep up this pretense. As my friends complained about not fitting the size 2 or XS properly…that a 4 was just “huge”, I would wonder with shame if they even had a comprehension of what size number I was. My own internalized fatphobia was real.

What was really missing in my life was representation of fat folks’ bodies. Real fat bodies. And especially fat bodies wearing clothes that I liked. I found it on sewing Instagram and the Curvy Sewing Collective. I came to the realization that the way extra flesh was deposited on my body was the same as on other people of size. I learned the term “shelf butt”.

I’d never sewn much for myself. When it was my job, I was typically sewing for runway models, actors, or other thin people. I was nervous. I was scared I’d make things too small and it would be depressing. But I jumped in and made it work. I figured out the shapes my patterns needed to be to fit my fat body.

I’m learning what I love to wear. What feels like me. For so long, I bought what fitted – both my body and my fatphobia. Now I’m able to choose exactly what I’d like to wear. I’ve made some garments that I don’t reach for and that’s ok. I’m behind in this regard because I only just began. And I am learning about my own intersectionality – race, size, sexuality. I have recently learned that I can wear yellow-based browns, having always been told they didn’t suit my Asian skin tone. Mustard is next to try.

The other day, a close friend told me she really liked the clothes I’d been wearing lately. She said that I’d always seemed uncomfortable and would be readjusting and pulling at them and now I seemed so much more comfortable and my clothes fit so much better. So, I suppose the only person I had been fooling was myself.

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About Me

Hello, I'm Leila. Here is where I periodically update with things I have written that I think are important. Check out my About me and Services sections

Popular Posts

Learning to be Fat

I am a delight to behold

I am a delight to behold

March 21, 2021
Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

March 22, 2021

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Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

I am a delight to behold

I am a delight to behold

March 21, 2021

Learning to be Fat

May 17, 2020

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leila_sews

Adorning fat bodies with beauty.
Patternmaker. Fat sewer. Conduit of knowledge. 🇦🇺 in 🇨🇦
Half of @munaandbroad patterns

Leila (she/her)
Today I am busting some myths about sewing. If you Today I am busting some myths about sewing. If you do things differently and they work for you, no worries! But if you want to get started or can’t work out why your finish isn’t what you want, maybe these will help

Image: five slides with the following text:
Five sewing myths and realities 

Myth: 
Sewing without pins shows you're a better sewist 
Reality: sewing without pins is faster, but isn't necessarily an indicator of skill. Tailors and couturiers often hand baste seams which is much slower an even more accurate than pinning! 

Myth : you need an expensive sewing machine to sew garments 
Reality: vintage, mechanical machines are fantastic and can often be bought inexpensively or acquired by asking friends. If you want the bells and whistles an extra convenience of a computerized machine, that's great too, but it's not required!

Myth: French seams are a great seam finish for most garments
Reality: French seams are great for specific purposes. For example, fine or sheer fabrics. They produce a bulk(should only be used on thin fabrics), and should never be used on a curved seam (you can't clip the seam to make it lie properly). Alternatives if you don't have a serger include zigzag, self bound, flat felled, and pin stitched seam finishes 

Myth: quilting cottons are appropriate to use for garment sewing
Reality: quilting cottons are designed to be used for... quilting. This means that stability for piecing is often the most important factor in the fabric’s qualities. For garment sewing, the way a fabric drapes is way more important. If you use quilting cotton for a garment, you might find it sits a bit too stiffly for your liking and can make garments look a bit clumsy

Myth: you need a lot of notions and tools for sewing 
Reality: to get started with sewing you need: fabric shears/scissors (don't invest in pricey ones until you know you like the craft!), a sewing machine, an un picker (because we all make mistakes), an iron (any inexpensive domestic iron is fine), pins. Other notions and tools can be fun but they aren't essential! 

#sewing #sewingtips #sewsewsew #sew #lovetosew #sewingskills #beginnersewing
When I first saw @yourbagofholding bags online I w When I first saw @yourbagofholding bags online I was enthralled, and then…covetous. So I hope you can imagine my thrill when I was asked to be a brand ambassador! This beautiful fuzzy shearling bag (gifted in exchange for a post) arrived the other day and I wasted no time in popping my things into it. For me, this Maxi Fanny pack is the perfect everyday carry size. It holds a big wallet (the long sort), sunglasses, EpiPen, keys, phone, and lip balm, just perfectly.

I appreciate how beautiful and thoughtful all of the details are on this bag. I’ve been experimenting with wearing it close fitting on my chest and also as a cross body. I haven’t yet tried it in waist mode, but I love that the hardware is applied so you can choose. Also, the strap lengths are customizable. This is the second longest size and I have more than enough strap to wear it any way I want. If you need a larger size, Emily will make you a longer strap, no worries. That’s a beautiful commitment to size inclusivity. 

So I thought I’d bring you along on my day yesterday as I experimented with wearing the bag different ways and for different things. It was a pleasure to be outside walking, window peeping, and generally being out and about in the pale sunshine.

Images: several different images of a fat, Asian woman with a grey shearling bag, and an all black outfit. One image shows the bag on a table with some of its items spilling out next to a snack of clementines and herbal tea
...and here is the glorious fishy lining in this # ...and here is the glorious fishy lining in this #belmorejacket!

 The pattern is unlined (has bound seam finish) but I really wanted to feature this amazing Fishy Kisses fabric from @m_o_l_l_y_m_o_l_l_y (sold out) so I made a lining pattern. 

The lining pattern is now available through the @munaandbroad patreon as a patreon perk at the upper tiers of membership. By the way, our patreon helps us support makers who cannot afford to access our patterns and also helps us to have Jess working full time for M&B. It replaced our pay it forward scheme. In the upper tiers, we have a monthly pattern bonus, Jess and I record weekly  chats where we can talk freely, we host sewing circles, a revolving discount and we have a discourse forum. 

I’m biased, but I think it’s worthwhile!

Do you prefer beautifully bound seams or a lining in your jackets?

Image: a fat Asian woman is holding her jacket open on one side and looking at the lining that features which fish drawings on a navy background. 

#curvysewing #fatsewing #sew #sewing #slowfashionstyle #plussizeminimalist #slowfashionwitch #plussizeslowfashion #bipocsewcialists #sewcialists #sewcialist #iwearwhatisew #isewmyownclothes #isewlation
I’ve been dying to make a black #belmorejacket a I’ve been dying to make a black #belmorejacket and I finally did it!

I used @blackbirdfabrics 8oz hemp/cotton canvas. This version is also fully lined, which you can’t see in this photo but I will share a lining pic soon. I also shortened the sleeves on this one. I may live to regret it. Who knows?

It’s a fast sew and I know I will wear this black one daily in the spring and fall. Because, you know...#slowfashionwitch 

Image: a fat Asian woman is standing next to a stone building and is leaning on the windowsill. She’s wearing a black loose jacket and a charcoal boilersuit

#munaandbroad #bfhempcotton #bfcanvas #boilersuit #dcpresets #dcpresets4 #iamadelighttobehold #sew #sewistsofinstagram #sewingproject #sewing #sewingplussize #plussizesewing #curvysewing #fatsewingclub #fatsewing #sewvisiblyfat #fatpeopleareaspirational
I do not love my body. I don't love my body beca I do not love my body.

I don't love my body because, to me, that implies that I am placing judgement on it. That I could fall out of love or that I could not love it.

My body is my body, and I respect it and try to give it what it deserves and what it needs in order to thrive. 

My body deserves comfort and care. One of the ways I care for myself is by making clothes that fit well and feel good from both a physical and mental point of view. It's not to say that I don't sometimes have days where I'm frustrated, but I find it a daily affirmation to wear clothing that honours my shape.

The other day, @marielle.elizabeth discussed the relationship between fatphobia and loungewear (it was on her stories and so is no longer visible, unfortunately). To paraphrase, she said that we, as fat people, often fall into the trap of making it obvious that we are "making an effort" with our appearance, and that loungewear is perceived to be anathema to that. 

And so, in an act of defiance, I made a pattern for some joggers that fit my fat body (potentially forthcoming). And I sewed them in some luxurious modal sweatshirting from @blackbirdfabrics. Today I am living my best, fat, makeup free, loungewear life. 

What’s your relationship with loungewear?

Image: a fat Asian woman is standing on a white fluffy rug. Large green plants are visible. She’s wearing grey sweatpants and a black t shirt and she is smiling

#fatpositive #fatactivist #fatactivism #munaandbroad #curvysewing #curvysewingcollective
Lazy days... There’s not to much to punctuate ou Lazy days...
There’s not to much to punctuate our days at the moment but today is a public holiday and I am taking this opportunity to stay in my robe for as long as possible! 

Up until recently, my robe was one of those fuzzy synthetic things that I’d owned for years and years but never reached for it because it was hot and I don’t care for synthetic fabrics against my skin, for the most part. This was a pattern I basically drafted right onto my yardage but I do have a distinct robe pattern in mind for a future release. Definitely with a different collar. 

What I love about this one is how highly and deeply it crosses over so there’s no exposure (unless I want it). It reminds me of the nostalgic feeling of wearing a hanbok in childhood, that at the time I hated. 

This amazing copper fabric is a tencel twill from the now sadly defunct @matchpointfabric. This beautiful mug is made by @rcboisjoli 

Have you got lazy days planned?

Image: a fat Asian woman is sitting on a tan leather sofa. She’s wearing a copper robe that crosses near her neck. She’s holding a newspaper and a coffee mug

#fatsewingclub #sewistsofinstagram #asiansewists #asianswhosew #bipocsewcialists #curvysewing #curvysewingcollective #cscmakes #plussizesewing
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