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Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

March 22, 2021 by munaandbroadly No Comments

If you support businesses that trade on the commodification and appropriation of Asian identity and culture, YOU are part of the problem. Ouch. None of us want to think we have done racist things, but we all have.

Ask yourself: why would a company choose Asian words to sell garments if they don’t have a personal connection with that culture or country beyond travel. It’s to feed on the exoticism or perceived coolness of that culture and that is exploitative.

When you purchase a garment or a sewing pattern that uses an Asian word, name, or garment type name, you are part of the fetishization and the dehumanization of Asians and Asian culture. This is a rung on the ladder that also includes the Asian sexualization and fetishization that fueled this latest bout of violence.

In addition to any larger social justice you might be participating in, I call on you to share your anti-racist actions that specifically relate to the slow fashion and sewing communities. Let’s make these actions the norm. Be part of a movement to affect some change here in our beloved communities. Here are some action items:

-Ask companies to change their practices. Be specific. Unfollow them and their hashtags and let them know why you will not support them until they change. Asking and waiting isn’t enough. You need to demonstrate that it is important to you by unfollowing.

-Stop sharing garments that are appropriative in name or garment type name. Take responsibility for your past actions. Delete old posts that feature appropriative words. Sharing doesn’t just benefit the company, it benefits you too. Are you OK with that?

-Do not take workshops or follow people that are sharing cultural sewing practices outside of their culture unless they have spent significant time in that country AND have been given permission by cultural knowledge keepers to share. Examples of this include Sashiko and Shibori.

-Do not wear, buy, or make items with Asian language writing , “China Doll” imagery, Asian pinup girls, bamboo print, fake Shibori, other “Asian-style” prints or images. Turn these into rags if you already own them or overdye them.

-If you are requesting cultural advice, hire a BIPOC from the culture or ethnicity you need advice on. But here’s a tip: if you’re questioning if something is problematic, I almost guarantee it is. Own up to your mistakes

-Support Black, Indigenous, Asian, and other POCs by amplifying their work and supporting their enterprises.

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I am a delight to behold

March 21, 2021 by munaandbroadly No Comments

My body is worth it.

My body is worth being clothed with care and consideration. I will not settle for things that don’t fit right.

My body shouldn’t be an afterthought. It is not difficult, or a way to deflect social media scrutiny. I’m not grateful for your crumbs.

Clothes hang differently on my body than thin bodies – it’s an opportunity for expression, for new shapes, and artistic freedom. It’s not a problem to be solved or diminished.

I am to be valued for the body I have. It’s ideal as it is and deserves patterns and clothes that were made for it, not in spite of it. Don’t hide me on the last slide of your post.

Look at me. I am soft. If you haven’t stroked a fat body and enjoyed its softness, you are missing out on delight.

I am a delight to behold.

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Learning to be Fat

May 17, 2020 by munaandbroadly No Comments

This blog post was written for FatSewing club as a part of Me Made May 2020

Over the years, I’ve spent a lot of time and energy trying to disguise my fatness from the rest of the world. Of course, now I have realized that not only is it pointless (I am fat – it’s a fact and everyone can tell), I have also come to the point where I just don’t care who knows.

I’d like to share some of the things I used to do, for your reading enjoyment.

I used to shop at the same stores that my thin friends did. That meant Artizia (Canadians will know this is a store that goes to a size XXS but only an L and a small one at that), Mountain Equipment Co-op (outdoors store), and Lululemon. Of course, my size means I can’t fit into most of the things in those stores but there were a few styles that worked (ish) for me and so I would buy them, thinking this would make it seem like I could fit straight sizes. I squeezed into the design ease or took advantage of the fabric’s stretch. I spent money on coveted accessories – Frye boots, nice bags. I tried to hid my fatness behind these symbols of thinness.

I would pretend I didn’t shop at plus sized clothing stores. When I absolutely had to go to Additionelle (plus sized clothing store), I would actually park in front of a different store and furtively scuttle into the shop, making sure no one I knew was around. I wouldn’t accept a store bag, give my address (didn’t want mail from them to appear at my house), or buy anything that was their house brand except underwear (i.e. nothing that might make someone ask where it was from).

When my body would do “embarrassing” things, I would feign surprise or lie about what was happening. For example, once I was running shuttle runs with a friend and as I turned, my belly slapped against my thigh, making a fairly loud noise. She was surprised and asked what it was. Because I was mortified that my belly touched the top of my thigh, I lied and told her my hand hit my leg as I ran. I don’t think she bought it.

And so it continued. For years. Me believing that my body was weirdly shaped and that I was fooling people. And I certainly had reinforcement from people that it was imperative that I keep up this pretense. As my friends complained about not fitting the size 2 or XS properly…that a 4 was just “huge”, I would wonder with shame if they even had a comprehension of what size number I was. My own internalized fatphobia was real.

What was really missing in my life was representation of fat folks’ bodies. Real fat bodies. And especially fat bodies wearing clothes that I liked. I found it on sewing Instagram and the Curvy Sewing Collective. I came to the realization that the way extra flesh was deposited on my body was the same as on other people of size. I learned the term “shelf butt”.

I’d never sewn much for myself. When it was my job, I was typically sewing for runway models, actors, or other thin people. I was nervous. I was scared I’d make things too small and it would be depressing. But I jumped in and made it work. I figured out the shapes my patterns needed to be to fit my fat body.

I’m learning what I love to wear. What feels like me. For so long, I bought what fitted – both my body and my fatphobia. Now I’m able to choose exactly what I’d like to wear. I’ve made some garments that I don’t reach for and that’s ok. I’m behind in this regard because I only just began. And I am learning about my own intersectionality – race, size, sexuality. I have recently learned that I can wear yellow-based browns, having always been told they didn’t suit my Asian skin tone. Mustard is next to try.

The other day, a close friend told me she really liked the clothes I’d been wearing lately. She said that I’d always seemed uncomfortable and would be readjusting and pulling at them and now I seemed so much more comfortable and my clothes fit so much better. So, I suppose the only person I had been fooling was myself.

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About Me

Hello, I'm Leila. Here is where I periodically update with things I have written that I think are important. Check out my About me and Services sections

Popular Posts

Learning to be Fat

I am a delight to behold

I am a delight to behold

March 21, 2021
Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

March 22, 2021

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Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

Take Anti-Racist steps in the slow fashion and sewing communities

I am a delight to behold

I am a delight to behold

March 21, 2021

Learning to be Fat

May 17, 2020

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leila_sews

Patternmaker. Fat sewer.
Half of @munaandbroad patterns
2022 @spoonflower ambassador

Leila
Although I’ve been physically out of action, thi Although I’ve been physically out of action, things Al have been moving behind the scenes, most notably the Dulcie Boxer Briefs over at @munaandbroad! Jess and I designed these to be worn next to the body but they also perform the function of anti chafe shorts!

We went through many different iterations of concept before we came up with these comfy numbers. There’s no side seam which allows maximum stretch and no show through, and a U shaped gusset that eliminates the inseam by moving it to the front and back. 

If you have eagle eyes, you might also spy an exciting notion used in this pair too. You can get our custom soft elastic exclusively at @nelliejoans who also has kits, or you can use any other soft boxer elastic!

Image: a person is wearing blue tight briefs that come most of the way down the thighs. They look very comfy 

#dulcieboxerbriefs #munaandbroad #memademayfat #fatsewing #fatsew #plussizesewing #chubrubshorts #sewinglingerie #lingeriepatterns #sewingunderwear #curvysewing #curvysewingcollective #sewplussize #plussizesewingpattern #sewcurvy
My silk shirt is done! This is the @munaandbroad My silk shirt is done!

This is the @munaandbroad #TarawiShirt with one of the patreon bonus collar patterns. I’m so pleased with how this turned out and it feels so good on my skin. 

The fabric is a black silk faille. It is super opaque and and flowy. I used silk interfacing (not organza but that would be equivalent) and I tried to keep it as clean finished as possible with hand finished collar and hand self bound armhole seams. The sleeves and side seams are French seams and I finished the hem with some self silk bias. 

Second slide shows the collar a bit more clearly. On the bottom I’m wearing #WillandraPants in tencel. It’s an almost impossibly slinky outfit!

Image: a fat Asian woman is standing next to a wall with some large green leaves visible. She’s wearing a black shirt and black pants. The second image is a second photo that is a bit lighter to show the details. 

#munaandbroad #sewing #fatsewing #sewvisiblyfat #curvysewing #plussizesewing
EDIT: the fabric webinar date has been changed to EDIT: the fabric webinar date has been changed to April 30 3-5pm EST (Toronto) time. All registrants have been contacted about this change with their options 

I am so so SO excited to collaborate with @winnipegsews to present my Fabric Webinar and Sample Pack. I know this is an area that many folks struggle with and during the webinar I will teach you how to choose fabrics for your garment sewing projects, decipher fabric suggestions, and shop for unlabelled fabrics

Live Webinar: See above for change (Canada EST)
Preorder sample pack by March 1, 2022
Total cost $190 CAD ($100 sample pack, $90 webinar). The sample pack cost includes worldwide shipping 

Register and preorder at www.winnipegsews.com/sample-pack

The Webinar is a deep dive into natural fibre garment sewing fabrics. It is suitable for all levels of sewists and will also add insight into fabrics for sustainable fashion enthusiasts. We will use interactive activities for categorizing, labelling, and critically analyzing the fibre, weave, and application of a wide variety of sustainable fabrics

The Sample Pack is 30 curated pieces of fabric - the key to our understanding natural fibres and learning to differentiate between fabrics. The sample pack includes 30 5”x5” samples of all different natural fibre fabrics. During the webinar you will apply the included stickers as you identify the fabrics and annotate printable fabric sample sheets

Image description in the comments

#sewingforeverybody #sewing #sewingtips #sewingtipsandtricks #sewingforbeginners #sewingworkshop #sewingtechniques #munaandbroad
I am thrilled to be a 2022 #SpoonflowerAmbassador! I am thrilled to be a 2022 #SpoonflowerAmbassador! I can’t wait to dig me teeth (and sewing machine needles!) into some more prints!

Swipe to see the amazing company I am in!

I’m wearing the @munaandbroad #SpinifexPJs in fabric designed by @pangniq, printed by @spoonflower 

Image: a fat Asian woman is sitting on a leather sofa wearing pyjamas printed with illustrations of Arctic char and geoducks. The second slide is a montage of the 2022 Spoonflower lineup!

#spoonflower
So, what does stripe friendly mean on this @munaan So, what does stripe friendly mean on this @munaandbroad #HydeTShirt mean exactly? It means that the lower hems are straight so that stripes don’t look distorted or cut off! Oftentimes t shirts have a curve in the front, like on our #TarleeTShirt to account for the bust pulling the top up. 

But I have a real soft spot for the playfulness of this hemline that speaks to the boxy heritage of the Hyde. 

On a side note: I wonder who will be able to guess why it’s called the Hyde. And it’s not named after Hyde Park in Sydney! 

Image: a fat Asian woman is standing at front side and back views in a long sleeved red and black striped t shirt.

#munaandbroad #sewistsofinstagram #plussizesewing #bipocsewcialists #asiansewists #asiansewistcollective #sewincolour #newpatternrelease
Introducing the #HydeTShirt over at @munaandbroad! Introducing the #HydeTShirt over at @munaandbroad!

Jess wanted a boxy oversized tee and this is it! Like her, I’ve found it hard to resist wearing the ones I’ve made but I did manage to hold off to avoid staining! 

There’s a long sleeve and this short sleeve version as well as a crossover back view (it doubles as an accessibility feature but I personally just like it for the way it looks - universal design!). 

We specially made this shirt to be stripe friendly (straight hems) because isn’t a boxy t shirt just dying to be a stripey?

There is 15% off this pattern this week with no code needed!

Image: a fat Asian woman is wearing a burgundy shirt sleeve loose t shirt. Her hand is going into her pocket so fast that it’s blurred and she’s laughing 

#munaandbroad #indiesewing #indiesewingpattern #fatsew #curvysewing #plussizesewing #sewplussize
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